By Jan Wizinowich
Like a dreamscape, Hikianalia glides on the horizon this early Sunday morning, the only color in an ancient pearl landscape. The one partly furled sail and the swift movement of the wa’a brings us back to local time with the realization that it is the solar powered motors and not the wind that is propelling the wa’a westward to come about on a broad
southeast reach into port to clear customs. Hikianalia, the latest addition to the 'ohana waʽa, has just made her maiden voyage from Aotearoa, where she was constructed, to Tahiti and from Tahiti to Hilo. The hulls, fiberglass covered foam, with sweeping lines are a thing of beauty as well as providing swift sailing with the teak deck lending another kind of practical beauty. Slated to be the escort for Hokuleʽa on her world voyage, which is scheduled for now to depart in June, Hikianalia is outfitted with 8 solar panels and 3 motors, making her the ideal escort craft.
southeast reach into port to clear customs. Hikianalia, the latest addition to the 'ohana waʽa, has just made her maiden voyage from Aotearoa, where she was constructed, to Tahiti and from Tahiti to Hilo. The hulls, fiberglass covered foam, with sweeping lines are a thing of beauty as well as providing swift sailing with the teak deck lending another kind of practical beauty. Slated to be the escort for Hokuleʽa on her world voyage, which is scheduled for now to depart in June, Hikianalia is outfitted with 8 solar panels and 3 motors, making her the ideal escort craft.
The waʽa comes about for her broad reach just off Honoliʽi, which is carpeted with surfers who may have gotten a glimpse of the ghostly visage in between rides, while we all wait at a Keaukaha Beach Park, just east of the Matson compound. The shoreline here is a jetty of ancient volcanic stones rooted in places by ironwood trees and stumps. The stones are of Kamehameha proportions, but were probably placed by manmade contraptions. I stand on the tail of this sinuous formation that extends out into Hilo Bay like a rectangular, angling snake. A lone fisherman stands on the wall, clutching his throw net, watching for the right moment. This shore, formed from ancient lava flows and reef, must have looked very different before human hands began rearranging it. The village hale set back from a shore with Pele at their backs and Kanaloa and potential tsunami at its front, was probably inhabited by ʽohana who were both calm and mobile.
Sleepy Blossoms, Hawane Rios and Pua Case wait for WaŹ½a Hikianalia Preparations are underway for a feast to welcome the crew while Aunty Deedee Bertelmann and Aunty Patty Soloman talk story and make lei. Ray and others arrange large pans of delectable food along a square of4 long tables. A small cluster of people watch from the jetty as Hikianalia makes her way into the port; the shoreline is stacked with containers, lined with hotels and busy with the regular activities of Sunday morning Hilo. Seated on the shore, we wait along with Hilo’s waʽa Hokualakaʽi who awaits her sister waʽa.
Kolomona Shintari and Bruce Blankenfeld are ferried off round the pier into port in a small zodiac. Meanwhile, Matson grinds to life for the work day to replace the warehouse roof. I’m treated to stories of these waters by two young companions who sit with me on the shore: Lurking tiger sharks, favorite eating fish and techniques for cooking and eating fish eyeballs. Another keiki tosses handfuls of small rocks into the water to scare the fish as he eats a spam musubi and is greatly amused to discover that the “fish” was only a stick.
Kolomona Shintari and Bruce Blankenfeld are ferried off round the pier into port in a small zodiac. Meanwhile, Matson grinds to life for the work day to replace the warehouse roof. I’m treated to stories of these waters by two young companions who sit with me on the shore: Lurking tiger sharks, favorite eating fish and techniques for cooking and eating fish eyeballs. Another keiki tosses handfuls of small rocks into the water to scare the fish as he eats a spam musubi and is greatly amused to discover that the “fish” was only a stick.
Finally we see the masts moving behind the port pier. As the waʽa rounds the pier from customs, Pua Case brings the pahu and is surrounded by welcoming ʽohana from Waimea and her two daughters. Pua’s husband, Kalani stands on the right in a small cluster of trees, pu in hand, ready to signal welcome. The Keaukaha ʽOhana stands in preparation, kīhei draped and tied above the shoulder. As Hikianalia enters the small bay, Pua sounds the pahu. The pu is sounded from the deck of Hokualakaʽi and from Kalani onshore.
Watching as three of the crew churn the water with the giant size steering paddle, one can almost imagine a majestic spirit gazing down in amusement. The paddle is pushed and pulled in rhythmic elliptical movements to turn the canoe astern to the shore, and a child nearby comments, “There’s solar panels on that boat”; such awareness. Indeed one would think that the waʽa was an enchanted vessel powered by magic, the motors run so quietly. Once the waʽa is turned there is still much to do, requiring a “try wait” attitude; there is a pensive quietude in the crowd that has gathered, as all concentrate on reaching out with piko energy, just as ancient voyagers traveling across the vast Pacific were tethered to shore by those who waited for their return. But now the waʽa is safely in port and the crew is anchoring her with tangible tethers extended out in four directions and tied to sturdy ironwood trees. The deck is set to rights and the crew gathers in a circle with Captain Bob Perkins, meditating on their journey and giving thanks to nā Akua. Clapping three times, the crew clusters, facing the shore, beginning a series of exchanged chants. The crew chants and many onshore join in. Next Chadd Paishon calls out across the water, requesting permission with the crew adding their voices. This is followed by a series of questions and requests from the crew, answered by many voices onshore. “Aloha e”, begin the Keaukaha ʽOhana and Pua turns to them, her already radiant face is enveloped in a sudden glow of sunlight.
Watching as three of the crew churn the water with the giant size steering paddle, one can almost imagine a majestic spirit gazing down in amusement. The paddle is pushed and pulled in rhythmic elliptical movements to turn the canoe astern to the shore, and a child nearby comments, “There’s solar panels on that boat”; such awareness. Indeed one would think that the waʽa was an enchanted vessel powered by magic, the motors run so quietly. Once the waʽa is turned there is still much to do, requiring a “try wait” attitude; there is a pensive quietude in the crowd that has gathered, as all concentrate on reaching out with piko energy, just as ancient voyagers traveling across the vast Pacific were tethered to shore by those who waited for their return. But now the waʽa is safely in port and the crew is anchoring her with tangible tethers extended out in four directions and tied to sturdy ironwood trees. The deck is set to rights and the crew gathers in a circle with Captain Bob Perkins, meditating on their journey and giving thanks to nā Akua. Clapping three times, the crew clusters, facing the shore, beginning a series of exchanged chants. The crew chants and many onshore join in. Next Chadd Paishon calls out across the water, requesting permission with the crew adding their voices. This is followed by a series of questions and requests from the crew, answered by many voices onshore. “Aloha e”, begin the Keaukaha ʽOhana and Pua turns to them, her already radiant face is enveloped in a sudden glow of sunlight.
When Keaukaha moves back, the crew do a haka to honor Hikianalia’s Atearoa origins. This is answered by the Waimea ʽOhana, led by Pua
and including: her daughters, Kealiʽi Bertelmann, Keala Kehuanui, Kala Akima, Pomai Bertelmann and Patty Soloman. The previous night, Hawane and Kealiʽi Bertelmann were working their magic out under
the stars, on stage at the Kawaihae Canoe Club. “No hana hou.
Hawane your mom is here and she says you got to go to Hilo to greet
Hikianalia; she coming in the morning.” But they did manage a touching hana hou, which was a song written by Hawane for Pua on her 50th birthday, joined onstage by Pua doing a graceful hula. In the morning, although Pua and herʽohana had driven from Waimea the previous night, arriving around midnight, their faces are alight with sheer joy.
and including: her daughters, Kealiʽi Bertelmann, Keala Kehuanui, Kala Akima, Pomai Bertelmann and Patty Soloman. The previous night, Hawane and Kealiʽi Bertelmann were working their magic out under
the stars, on stage at the Kawaihae Canoe Club. “No hana hou.
Hawane your mom is here and she says you got to go to Hilo to greet
Hikianalia; she coming in the morning.” But they did manage a touching hana hou, which was a song written by Hawane for Pua on her 50th birthday, joined onstage by Pua doing a graceful hula. In the morning, although Pua and herʽohana had driven from Waimea the previous night, arriving around midnight, their faces are alight with sheer joy.
E o!! is called out in gratitude as the first of the crew, Chadd and two others, touch shore. Chadd stands before the gathering, and is approached in quiet respect, gathering each person in his
all-encompassing embrace. Kealiʽi and Pualani approach with their two keiki, Kumano clinging to his Uncle Chadd in amazement, a powerful memory being sealed in his heart. Rod Floro, teacher from Keaau and waʽa crew, brings his son to be touched with aloha, followed by Pomai Bertelmann and old friend and cultural practitioner Keoni Aweau Turalde, who had spotted the waʽa from his lanai.
all-encompassing embrace. Kealiʽi and Pualani approach with their two keiki, Kumano clinging to his Uncle Chadd in amazement, a powerful memory being sealed in his heart. Rod Floro, teacher from Keaau and waʽa crew, brings his son to be touched with aloha, followed by Pomai Bertelmann and old friend and cultural practitioner Keoni Aweau Turalde, who had spotted the waʽa from his lanai.
This is another milestone in the reawakening of Pacific voyaging;
the waʽa will now have an escort of ancient design, if not ancient materials. Kamehameha made use of the western technology of his time that suited his purpose, and in like fashion, the technology that enhances the waʽa while benefitting the planet will support their efforts back to the future. And even though the outcome of this voyage was much more secure than in ancient times, the fervor at her safe arrival was no less for it. The spirits of the voyaging ancestors were there with us, a cheering, welcoming presence. Mahalo e nā Akua.
the waʽa will now have an escort of ancient design, if not ancient materials. Kamehameha made use of the western technology of his time that suited his purpose, and in like fashion, the technology that enhances the waʽa while benefitting the planet will support their efforts back to the future. And even though the outcome of this voyage was much more secure than in ancient times, the fervor at her safe arrival was no less for it. The spirits of the voyaging ancestors were there with us, a cheering, welcoming presence. Mahalo e nā Akua.
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