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Feather Lei Making: Leo Mills Carries on the Family Tradition  West Hawaii Today   2/7/17

2/8/2017

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Leo Mills wears a hat decorated with a lei she made 20 years ago. In her hands she holds a 1941 pelt, the year she was born.
    The feather lei, which has traversed time from prized adornment for ancient royalty, to the hat brims of paniolo, is a fine art being kept alive in Waimea by feather lei maker, Leonetta (Leo) Mills. The oldest child of Hisao and Elizabeth Kimura, Leo learned her craft from her master lei maker aunt, Tsugi Kaiama.
    Many lei traditions were carried on by paniolo. Aunt Tsugi learned her craft from her brother Yutaka, who was a master lei maker. “The cowboys wore flower lei, feather lei and it's amazing because of the kind of work they do. But they would come home with the lei still on their hats. Just maybe not the way it was when they left,” said Mills.
    Before Leo became a master lei maker, she taught home economics and then elementary school for many years. “I started out in Connecticut teaching there. Then I moved back here and taught at Kohala High School,” said Mills. It was in Waimea that she met her husband, Clarence Mills, also taught at Kohala. “I met my husband and we married and we both went to O'ahu and taught at Kahuku High School,” said Mills.
​     But family brought them back home to Hawaii Island. “His (Clarence’s) mom and dad were getting up in years and they lived in Honokaa and so we both applied for jobs in Honokaa and we were hired. And after 30 years there I retired,” said Mills.
 
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Leo demonstrates the art of making lei.
     About five years before she retired, her Aunt Tsugi recruited her to learn her craft, which eventually opened an entirely different world for her. “When I retired I saw a different world. All the creativity. I was just amazed. I thought I had seen enough in my job, but this world of the arts is just fabulous. I was so fortunate to meet so many artists,” said Mills.
    Mills’ apprenticeship ranged from preserving bird pelts to painting classes. “She had me take all these different art classes at the Firehouse Gallery. A lot of times when you create a lei it involves design, color combination and patterns and it really helped,” she explained.
    The creation of art requires a special state of mind and over the years, Mills has developed a kind of meditative state for lei making. “Before you start, calm yourself down and before you pick up your feathers and start sewing say a little prayer, clear you mind of everything. It was difficult for me at first to do that because when I entered my work room, my mind was just going,” said Mills. “It took several years. It didn't just come like that. I play my CDs. I love piano. Today, it just comes as soon as I enter my room,” she added.
​    For Mills, lei making is often inspired by an appreciation of nature’s creations. “When I look at it (feather) on the pelt, it's so beautiful and then when I clip it and take it off, it no longer looks that beautiful because I’ve taken it away from the beauty that it was a part of. Then it's my job to create that beauty on the lei,” said Mills.

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The last lei made by Leo's Aunt Tsugi.
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    Mills gets specific orders for lei, which help her to continue to grow and learn. She has developed a technique of using feathers from the guinea hen to create the effect of baby’s breath because one of her customers, “wanted me to make it look like the lei you see on people's heads. There's always baby's breath. How can I create that with feathers? It bothered me and bothered me and one night it came to me in a dream, what feather to use,” said Mills.
    Another special request came from Keoki Freeland, a hunter from Maui, whose great grandmother is the one who taught Yutaka to make feather lei. When he requested a lei for his wife, Kohala artist Elizabeth Woodhouse, Mills was in a quandary thinking about how to design it.
    “What would an artist do? If I had a pallet in front of me (I call my feather things my pallet) I'd probably just brush it all together.
  So I cut the feathers and just mixed them all up and I told her ‘This is a splash on your pallet’ and she loved it,” said Mills.
    Reflecting over the years, Mills has had some “aha” moments. “After I completed my apprenticeship and I was invited to the academy of arts to share my work. That was my first contact with other Hawaiian artists. It just so happened that I sat next to the Niihau shell people. I learned so much from them. It opened my eyes to other forms of Hawaiian art,” said Mills.
    Then she was invited to go to Arizona to participate in the 2006 Western Arts Festival and although she couldn’t go, she contributed one of her lei. “They gave it to one of the hat makers, Randy Rains from Montana. They put it on his hat and displayed our work at the Phoenix airport,” said Mills.
    It also made a connection for her between the art of the paniolo and the art of Western cowboys. “It all started with the cowboys and I was able to share my art outside of Hawaii and with a different kind of art,” said Mills.
    Her last aha moment so far, was a tribute to the art she has shared for the last 18 years at the Four Seasons Resort.
  A regular guest decided he wanted to give something back to the resort and decided to renovate the employee dining room.
    “I remember them coming because they had little children and they used to come to the Hawaiian Cultural center while I did my work,” said Mills. As part of the renovation, “He requested to have my work in it. We spent months putting together everything and a photographer took pictures of my pelts to show how leis are put together,” said Mills.
​    Over the years, Mills has passed her art on to about 25 students in the hopes that feather lei will continue to reflect the beauty of our island into the future.


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Hana Hou Cowboys

5/16/2012

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Hana Hou Cowboys

By Jan Wizinowich
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Photo by: Margie Sims
It is probably safe to say that the most unique attribute of Waimea is its location within one of the world’s largest ranches.  Where else can you see top-notch working cowboys strut their racing, riding, roping stuff?  One of the events to be celebrated by Parker Ranch in this one hundred fiftieth anniversary year, is the thirty-sixth annual Fourth of July meet.  Over the years, it has been a showcase for the riding skills of local paniolo as well as an opportunity to honor visiting dignitaries and retiring employees.  In reading past accounts of the rodeo in the “Paka Paniolo”, one senses that this celebration was one of closure for the events of the year, a reflection on the past year.

The meet begins with an opening ceremony in which both retired and current paniolo, on well-groomed Parker Ranch horses — flags and banners waving — ride past the reviewing stand for the raising of the flag and the national anthem.  Traditionally, the flag raising has been accompanied by various bands from the Big Island and O’ahu.  Following this, Richard Smart would announce the year’s honorees and then pronounce, “let the games begin”, which consisted of a series of races (relays, 1/4 mile grade, 3/8 and ¾ mile thoroughbred), reining, wild cow milking and roping.

In 1963, a large banner proclaimed “Keiki O Ka Aina”, designating the meet as Frances I’i Brown Day.  “It was one of the largest turnouts in years.  Weather was good, the track fast and beaming through it all was Frances I’i Brown, whose day it was.” That year the Boy Scouts handled the flag raising, Kent Bowman manned the mike and Morgan Brown judged the events.  Yutaka Kimura came in first on the quarter-mile race, riding Thunderbird; Masa Kawamoto, riding Miracle, made first in reining and calf roping; and Joe Hui won the barrel racing riding Lucky Legs.
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Although the year’s meet began with a snafu that prevented Schofield Barracks’ Second Brigade, Twenty-fifth Division band from arriving on time, this did not affect Masa Kawamoto’s stellar performance.  Teaming up with Miracle, Masa took the Linfoot trophies for best horseman and best horse.  The prized silver bowls were his for keeps, as he had won three years running.  Also honored that year was Willie Kaniho Sr., a sixty-nine year old veteran of the ranch.  John Wayne, in the islands filming “In Harm’s Way”, was on hand to sign autographs. 

Cold, misty Waimea weather set the scene for the 1966 celebration, which honored Neal S. Blaisdell, then mayor of Honolulu.  The flag raising was serenaded by the Konawaena High School Band who were, “nattily outfitted in their green and white uniforms…[and] opened the day’s festivities with a snappy march.” However, the four legged participants had their own agenda. “Perhaps the weather was a little unsettling for the horses, or maybe they were a little bored because….some of the horses chose not to compete in the races but to put on a wild west bucking exhibition.”

Two special events took place in 1966.  There was a calf tying for budding young paniolo eleven to fifteen years.  The first and second place winners were Valerie and Joel Hui (children of cowboy Joe Hui and Aletha Lindsey). Also that year, was an old-timers roping exhibition with Willie Kaniho, 71; Yutaka Kimura, 61; Joe Pacheco, 62; Frank Vierra, 60 and Henry Ah Sam Sr., 68, who all learned their roping skills many years ago on the wide open range lands of Parker Ranch.  A new award, the Parker Ranch riding stable perpetual trophy, was added for the trainer of the winning thoroughbred. 

The following year’s celebration belonged to Yutaka Kimura, who retired in 1967 after forty years of service.  “As the paniolo paraded past the reviewing stand, they were led by flag bearers Joe Pacheco, Billy Boy Lindsey, Charley Stevens and Walter Stevens.  Leading the riders was Yutaka Kimura, honoree, on his favorite palomino.  He paused at the finish line and watched his buddies file by, then galloped out of the track and up to the reviewing stand…”  With the graceful style that is his signature, Yutaka bid aloha saying, “Although I am leaving, my heart will always remain with Parker Ranch.”

In 1968, the celebration was an emotional one that was filled with losses.  The tragic death of John Hu, “who was killed as a result of an accident early one morning in the Pu’uhue corral when his horse suddenly and without warning leaped up into the air falling backward on John…” was commemorated by the presentation of a flag to the Paka Paniolo Horsemen’s Association from John’s family.  A moment of silence was also observed in memory of Billy Boy Lindsey and Pedro Delos Santos, who had recently passed away. 

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Highlights of the races saw Jiro Yamaguchi come in a winner in team ropping with Masa Kawamoto. Jiro and Molly Yamaguchi’s son Mark, won the Shetland pony race. Riding Cherokee Rose, Louis Akana captured best horseman, breaking Masa Kawamoto’s six year winning streak. The events of the Fourth of July Rodeo and its skilled participants are one of the many things that make Waimea so unique. 

The rodeo carries on through descendents of  Parker Ranch Paniolos and reminds us each year of the legacy of skill and toughness exemplified by such greats as Ikua Purdy, who won the 1908 Cheyenne Frontier Days Rodeo.

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We Are One: Parker Ranch and Our Changing Waimea Village

5/15/2012

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We Are One: Parker Ranch and Our Changing Waimea Village

By Jan Wizinowich
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The One hundred fiftieth anniversary of Parker Ranch can also be considered a commemoration of our Waimea Village.  Just as the Big Island began to work its magic on John Palmer Parker, the endeavor began by him so many decades ago has shaped Waimea into the special place it is today.  The old district, dotted with native villages, has changed in obvious ways from the early, sleepy days.  While the fast pace can be unsettling and we no longer have the pleasure of seeing travelers on horseback traversing mainstreet, the broad, rocky plains, sweeping up to the often snow topped sentinel of Mauna Kea, serves as a constant link to the majesty and history of this place.  The spirit of hard work, aloha ‘aina, and ‘ohana are important legacies that have contributed to Waimea’s unique flavor and to the survival of Parker Ranch.  

The destinies of Waimea and Parker Ranch were tied together from its inception, blending stiff New England ways with rich, Native Hawaiian Culture. From the beginning Parker embraced the native ways and made them his own. “…he possessed certain personal attributes that instilled respect in all those who made his acquaintance.  His quiet, unassuming but self-assured manner made him popular with the natives” (Wellmon, The Parker Ranch: A History). 
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John Parker
John Palmer Parker’s New England roots, when transplanted in Waimea, created a hybrid much like the indigenous ‘a’ali’i plant, which has strength and flexibility, yet produces colorful, delicate, lantern-like flowers.  He had a flair for chanting, music and storytelling that lit up the dark Mana evenings. “He had an ear for the native chants, and he could intone ancient Hawaiian songs with the best storytellers on the islands” (Wellmon).  

Parker’s openness to new skills and ways combined with hard work contributed greatly to the early survival of Parker Ranch.  Before ranching was really established  on the Waimea plains, Parker, working at French’s store, “…listened to the stories and wisdom of the Mexican vaqueros who had come from California to work the mountain cattle.  Here with natives congregated about a bright fire blazing in a cavity in the earthen floor…Parker listened attentively as gnarled faces, partially covered by large sombreros and obscured by the dimness of the room, broke out in smiles and nodded in unison to tales concerning life on the large cattle ranches in California where they had grown up” (Wellmon).

On his marriage to Kipikane (granddaugher of King Kamehameha I), Parker was given a small grant of land in Kohala.  But the real beginning of the ranch operation centered on a six acre plot near the foothills of Waimea, granted to him on January 8, 1847 under new legislation that challenged the traditional Hawaiian land tenure system; it was here he built his first home at Mana. Three years later, Parker was able to purchase the 640 acres surrounding his homesite.  This was augmented by the acquisition of another 1000 acres the following year and the lease of Waikoloa lands from Kamehameha III a year after that. 

With hard work and frugal ways, mixed with a Hawaiian style, Parker Ranch became securely established.  Parker had 3 almost-grown children – Mary, John and Ebenezer.  He set about creating a permanent home and farming/ranching operations centered in Mana.  

Parker began to gather a retinue of native workers whom he treated as ‘ohana.  This mutually beneficial relationship intertwined the destinies of the ranch and the native residents of Waimea during a transitional time.  With the influx of westerners, the challenge of the kapu system by Liholiho and the demise of the old tenant land system the old foundations of life were changing.  Parker needed hands to help him operate his growing concern and the Hawaiians needed work. 

After Parker died in 1868, having established a prosperous enterprise for his son, John II and grandson Samuel, there were difficult challenges for the ranch.  Drought made food scarce, and Kawaihae harbor was destroyed by storm and tidal wave. However, John II continued to run the ranch much in the same fashion as his father, while Samuel attended school on O’ahu. 

The fortunes of the ranch changed with the return of Samuel, who enjoyed the ranching life, but had no interest in working it.  While he brought an air of levity to the somberness of Mana and made improvements to the houses there, his spendthrift ways and an unwise investment in the newly-established sugar cane industry threatened the survival of Parker Ranch and cause a rift in the family.

Although the ranch was in disarray, the powerful legacy set in place by John Palmer Parker, remained and seemed to take on a life of its own.  Parker Ranch saw its salvation arrive in the form of A.W. Carter and Mrs. Elizabeth Dowsett “Aunt Tootsie”, who was the wife of John III (Samuel’s eldest).  John III died suddenly and left Aunt Tootsie with one child, a girl named Thelma.  Asked by Mrs. Dowsett to protect her share of the ranch, Honolulu Lawyer A.W. Carter on the responsibility with the kind of zeal possessed by John Palmer Parker.  Carter was a hard-working man who loved the land and believed in an all-inclusive ‘ohana founded on mutual beneficial endeavor.  His willingness to work alongside the cowboy gangs gained the respect of all. “It was common for him to be in the saddle before daylight, riding with the paniolos over rough terrain, working through brush and through heavily-forested areas, helping with the roundups, the brandings”(Joseph Brennan, The Parker Ranch of Hawaii). 

Also, like John Parker, Carter took a global view of the stewardship of the ranch and the land on which it depended.  He studied every aspect of ranching and acquired adjacent lands (ultimately totaling 330,000 acres), implemented improvements in pasture lands by experimenting with different types of grasses, improved the stock by importing prize breeding bulls and polled Herefore and Holsteins for the dairy.  He also created a strong herd of horses in the same manner and instituted a, “…policy of raising thoroughbreds on open ranges like the Parker Ranch terrain [which] contributed tremendously to the net result in the quality of the animal” (Brennan). The fencing of grazing land to prevent encroachments and loss of cattle, and the piping of water to those pastures were also put in place through the efforts of Carter.  He was also involved in the reforestation and conservation efforts that improved both the watershed and the general environment of Waimea and Kohala.  

In times of bounty, Carter shared the abundance with the ranching ‘ohana by instituing a home ownership program.  Through no-interest loans and reasonable payment schedules, it became possible for as many families as desired it to own their own property. “The acquiring of land was, in no sense, for the personal, privated gaind of a few; it was for the good of the many.  Carter embroidered old John Parker’s original dream by making the ranch larger, exotic, totally engrossing, profitable and peopled with the families that worked it” (Brennan). Through the auspices of Carter, Parker Ranch also shared its bounty with the Waimea community through educational resources, donations to charitable organizations and care of the elderly. 

After the untimely deaths of Thelma (tuberculosis), Henry Gaillard Smart (meningitis) and their infant daughter shortly after her birth, a dark pall seemed to settle on the ranch.  Aunt Tootsie clung to the hope offered by young Richard Palmer Smart, son of Thelma and Henry and last remaining heir to Parker Ranch.  Under the careful tutelage of both Aunt Tootsie and A.W. Carter, Richard received the education he would one day need to operate the ranch. Although he stayed closely tied to the ranch, in the tradition of his raconteur forbearer, Richard pursed a career in the theater, eventually returning in 1960. 

The evidence of the legacy of John Palmer Parker, as carried out by Richard Smart, can be seen in the hundred-plus issues of “Paka Paniolo”, the monthly ranch newspaper published from 1960-1970. His obvious concern for and  pride in the Waimea community is clearly expressed in “Aloha ‘Aina”, a column that appears in each issue. 

In April 1970 Richard Smart wrote: “When one thinks of Parker Ranch, the average passerby traveling through our lands may only think of the cattle, the horses, the open spaces and the mountains.  However, more important than any of these, I feel, are the people – the people that make up the ranch family now, those who have been a part of the past and the younger ones who will be a part of the future.  If it weren’t for the wonderful people who make up our group of loyal and hard-working employees, the ranch wouldn’t be what it is today.” These sentiments are signified year after year through programs for employees such as property ownership, profit sharing and educational scholarships. 

Plagued by drought and rising costs, the struggle to keep the ranch viable led Smart to sell parcels of land along the coast that were not suitable for grazing.  This began with the purchase of the Hapuna / Mauna Kea property in 1963 by Lawrence Rockefeller, followed in January 1969 by the sale of the Waikoloa / Anaeho’omalu property to the Boise Cascade and Signal   companies.  This was a hard decision; both areas were special gathering places for the ranch ‘ohana.  Before there was road access, the children and families of ranch employees boarded boats and gathered to create memories full of laughter, story and song. 

Smart’s concern for the Waimea district as a whole though, was evident in his awareness the tradeoffs involved in the march of progress.  In 1969 he wrote: “No longer are the Boise Cascade and Signal companies’ developments just plans to be read about in the newspapers and no longer is our village the quiet and remote place we have always known and loved.  New faces, new businesses, new advantages, and let us fact it – new problems too, are becoming more evident.  Along with the advantages of better shopping, and employment opportunities there are the problems of more traffic, higher prices, and lack of adequate housing.” Smart was seeing the end of an era in Waimea and the surrounding communities.

While Parker Ranch continues as a viable operation, economic exigencies have made it necessary to sell or develop more ranch lands, which will ultimately affect the Waimea community.  Waimea and Parker Ranch are like two strong ‘ohi’a trees whose roots and branches have grown together, and just like the ‘ohi’a, the fate of one becomes the fate of the other.  While this was the understanding that informed Richard Smart’s vision of Waimea, the question still remains: What will the intertwined destinies of Waimea and Parker Ranch bring next? Will it be possible for Waimea to preserve its unique heritage and its own special brand of ‘ohana and aloha ‘aina?  

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Na Paniolo ‘O Waimea

5/15/2012

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Na Paniolo ‘O Waimea

By Jan Wizinowich
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Day is only a faint glow behind the Kohala mountains, bleary-eyed Hilo commuters are rushing to work, trucks are rumbling down the Kawaihae Road and suddenly – the thunder of many hooves as cattle crest a ridge and race down the hillside.  A cacophonous, amoeba-like cluster, skirted by only a handful of riders moving with ease to contain and direct this undulating mass, seemingly on the verge of chaos.  Paniolo…the very word speaks of courage, skill, adventure.

The Roots of Ranching on the Big Island

Nestled within Parker Ranch, the largest, singly-owned working ranch in the U.S., Waimea has a long history of ranching that continues today.  However, the eventual establishment of Parker Ranch resulted from the intertwined destinies of ancient Hawaii and the influences of westerners who arrived on the shores of Hawaii Island. 
 
Undiscovered by Europeans until the late 18th century, Hawaii soon became an important stop on busy trade routes across the Pacific.  Kawaihae Harbor, on the northwest coast of the Island and ten miles west of the center of Waimea district and Parker Ranch,  provided the contact point for various westerners and local island residents.  The early beginnings of this east / west contact were presided over by King Kamehameha I, who in the midst of his efforts to unify the islands, was provided with firearms and two westerners, John Young and Isaac Davis, who knew how to use them.

While Kamehameha’s successful unification efforts provided internal stabilization, new western influences began to exert a more subtle change.  In 1793, not long after unification, Captain Vancouver arrived with the gift of cattle he had purchased in California.  He presented these to King Kamehameha with the suggestion that he place them under his protection for the next ten years.  With a strict kapu in place,  it didn’t take long before the plains of Waimea were crowded with cattle. In Aloha Cowboys Virginia Cowan-Smith and Bonnie Domrose-Stone describe the impact:
 
Vast herds of these long-horned beasts roamed freely throughout the island and quickly became a nuisance.  The cattle, called ‘pipi’ by the Hawaiians, from the English word ‘beef’, were soon destroying crops of taro, banana, and papaya and often attacking the natives as well.  The Hawaiians tried building walls around their huts and around their crops but met with little success.  The rampaging cattle went either through or over the barricades, trampling everything in their path.
 
The impact of the cattle can be seen today in the serpentine rock walls, built to keep out the early wild cattle, that weave through a timeless rugged terrain, marking early village sites.
 
Young and strong John Parker soon found himself riding a wave of change. When he arrived on the North Hawaii Island, a seaman tired of travel, he embraced the people and lifestyle he found.  Like John Young and Isaac Davis he was befriended by King Kamehameha and eventually married King Kamehameha I’s granddaughter, Kipikane, settling on Waiapuka, his home in Kohala. However, Parker made many trips to the plains of Waimea, which was soon to become his home.

Kamehameha having lifted the kapu on killing cattle Parker was often encountered hunting bullocks on the Waimea Plains and was renowned for his skill.  Traveling on foot, he tracked the wild cattle through the forests and plains of Waimea.  William Ellis, an English missionary, encountered Parker at his camp in Waimea where, “The beauty of the place was almost unnatural, enchanting.  Stretching above the reddish tinted water of a number of dancing streams the symmetrical, pyramid-like shapes of the Kohalas stood like the ruins of some forgotten civilization.” (Wellmon, 32)  It was no wonder that Parker eventually moved his family to Waimea.

But before Parker could establish his ranch in Waimea, another change had to take place.  The land tenure system, which was based on an ancient hierarchy of chiefs, did not permit private ownership of land.  Instead, favored chiefs were given a section of land called an ahupua’a, which ran in a pie shape from the mountains to the sea.  In turn, sections of that land were divided based on geographic features and granted to specific persons who were trained in the stewardship of those divisions and passed the knowledge on to the next generation. 

However, these land grants were not absolute and could just as easily be reclaimed by the ruling chief and they were also exclusive with a few exceptions, of non-Hawaiians.  In 1839 the “Bill of Rights” was enacted that changed the monarchy to a constitutional one and created a Land Commission.  During this time, Parker established claim to the land near the foothills of Mauna Kea that he held with a lease agreement.  After petitioning the Land Commission, he was granted the 12 homestead acres that was soon to grow into a vast cattle operation known as Parker Ranch. 
The next challenge was of the four legged variety. In order to have a cattle ranch, it is necessary to catch and corral the livestock.  After ten years, when the kapu was lifted by King Kamehameha, safely capturing the animals became the next problem. Bullock hunting using trained dogs and pits, was slow and sometimes dangerous work. The introduction of horses by Captain Richard J. Cleveland in 1803, provided the potential solution to this problem, although it was a few years still before horses were to be employed. 

 King Kamehameha III (Liholiho), realizing the value of using horses to manage cattle and also seeing the need for trained riders, invited the first cowboys, known as vaqueros, to the Big Island.  These vaqueros, who arrived in 1832 from Mexico (now California) were skilled riders, cattle herders and leather workers, giving rise to the term paniolo.  “Hawaiians quickly adapted to the skills of the vaqueros.  In the summer of 1830, Liholiho and others of his court rode toward the southwest slope of Mauna Kea from Waimea village to climb the mountain.  One observer recalled that ‘the King appeared affable, kind and teachable on horseback,’ and successfully captured a young yearling bullock for lunch” (Wellmon, 44).

The skills of the vaqueros established formal cattle ranching in Waimea. “Horseman became a common sight.  Captured mountain cattle were domesticated.  Corrals and cattle pens were erected….These new ways became part of the heritage of the area, and in the following years Waimea emerged as an important cattle-raising frontier” (Wellmon, 46)

Five Paniolos
What follows are five short articles derived from interviews done by Waimea Middle School 7th and 8th graders through a grant project funded by Hawaii Community Foundation.  This project offered an opportunity for students to study local history, learn about doing oral history and to interview five paniolos and record their stories and hopefully gain some insight into the ranching life of Waimea. 
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Teddy Bell
 
Teddy Bell strode into Thelma Parker Library with the quiet self-assurance of someone who has seen it all and stayed on his horse.  Born in Waimea on August 14, 1923, Teddy Bell spent part of his childhood in Waiki’i where his father was a foremant for the Parker Ranch farming operation.  There was a small community in Waiki’I at that time, and from third grade on, Teddy attended a one-room school with about thirty students. 

 The day after finishing 8th grade, Teddy began working as a paniolo for Parker Ranch. “We got out of school, say June 9th; the 10th I was working already.  You feel beat when you start working.  Fifty cents a day.” Teddy started as a paniolo in the Waike’I section; this began his long career on horseback.  With the exception of active duty in the Philipines during World War II, Teddy worked as a paniolo and then as a supervisor for the horse program on Parker Ranch until his retirement in 1981. 

It was in the Philipines that the fortitude, which came from his early paniolo experience served him well.  “At time of war, no one can tell me they are not afraid.  But you got a job to do and you have to do it.” The war ended on Teddy’s 22nd birthday, but he wasn’t celebrating.  “The first time they came in, you know, when Japan surrendered, it was August 14, 1945.  I can’t forget that day…It was a nasty day, but we were lucky.  We’re back home here today...”

While finishing his time in the service on O’ahu, Teddy met his wife Pi’ilani.  When asked how he met her, a sparkle appeared in his eyes and with a chuckle he simply stated, “While I was in the service, and I met her in Honolulu—she’s from Hilo. That’s how we got acquainted.” As hard as we tried, we could not pry that story from him. 

When he returned to Parker Ranch, Teddy began working with the horse program which he likened to building a car.  “You want to train a horse so he’s something like a car. You know the difference between a Jeep and a Cadillac—a Cadillac is something very comfortable.  A jeep is very uncomfortable.  That’s same like a horse.  You want a good, well-trained horse, it will be like a Cadillac.”

After forty-plus years with Parker Ranch, Teddy Bell retired, but he hasn’t stopped working.  As well as doing a little cattle ranching himself, Teddy is inspired by his love of horses and his concern for the youth of our community, to volunteer his time teaching young kids to ride.
Teddy Bell passed away on July 18, 2002 and was inducted into the Paniolo Hall of Fame posthumously later in 2002. 

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Rally Greenwell

Next time you are driving down Palani Road into Kona, think of Rally Greenwell;  that road was named after his father.  Born in Kona in 1914, Rally grew up with ranching.  Riding from the time he was three, he helped his father on the family ranch, also named Palani after his father Frank.  Rally is a tall, gracious man with a sense of humor that puts everyone in his presence at ease.

Always preferring to be riding the range, Rally “didn’t like school, period.” But his parents had other ideas and he ended up completing twelve years of schooling, beinning with a one-room school in Kona. “In those days, there were few schools around and I went to a little, private school in Kona with ten or twelve children.  And the grades, there were probably three or four different grades.  So, you can see, it was just a small school.”

At the age of eleven, Rally continued his education at a private school in the San Francisco area, and had the adventure of traveling with his two brothers on a Matson ship. “Once you got over the seasickness, it was a lot of fun.  They had different games that you would play and there would be quite a few other local kids on the boat that would be going back to school or something, so you would get to know them...”

However, seasickness was not the only sickness he felt; Rally missed his home in the islands.  After completing his schooling at Roosevelt High School in Honolulu, Rally returned to his beloved Big Island and began working at Parker Ranch.

Rally was with the ranch for ten years when his agricultural deferment expired and he was to be drafted into the service.  However, it was not to be.  “I took my physical and I was ready to go into the service and I left Parker Ranch.  I went home to Kona that night and somehow, Mr. Von Holt, who was manager and half owner of Kahua (ranch), heard about me leaving Parker Ranch, so he called me up and asked me if I wanted to come and work for him.  And I said, ‘Well, Mr. Von Hold, I’m sorry I’ve taken my physical, I’m going into the army.’ And he said, ‘I’m chairman of the draft board.  I can take care of that for you.’ Because switching from here going up there, I was changing jobs, going into agriculture again, so I could get another deferment.”

It was at Kahua Ranch that Rally met his wife Pat, who was visiting from O’ahu.  Ever wonder how Buster Brown got its name? “She (Pat) lived in Honolulu and she was visiting her cousin, Buster Brown, who lived in Waimea here; they named this hill up here Buster Brown Hill.  The Marines named it Buster Brown Hill because he lived just below the hill there and they got to know him.”  Pat and Rally’s mutual love for riding led to a lifelong partnership. 

After eight years with Kahua Ranch, Rally returned to Parker Ranch where he remained for nine years as manager until his retirement.  The paniolo life is the only life that Rally has known or wanted to know.  “Well, if I had to do my life all over again, I would do it exactly the same way.  I really have enjoyed my life.  It has been hard worked but it has been a lot of fun.  I think it was quite different then what it is today.  We used to drive cattle for miles and miles….from here down to the pier at Kawaihae.”

His only regret is that the paniolo today cannot experience the freedom of riding miles of range as he had the opportunity to do.  But actively rode the range in his own way; up until his passing a few years ago, you could see him in his signature broad-brimmed, white hat, driving around town in a vintage green Land Rover.
 
Rally passed away in June 2006 at the age of 92. 

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Charlie Kimura

Coming to the interview straight from work on a Friday afternoon, Charlie Kimura must have been ready for pau hana, but he still had the time and energy to share his story with us.  Born in Waimea in 1931, Charlie Kimura is the youngest of the interviewees.  He has spent most of his life in this community, with the exception of a stint in the Marines.  While he has had opportunities to leave, Charlie wanted to come back to Parker Ranch and the life he loved.

He has worked as a paniolo, but also followed in his father Yutaka’s footsteps to workd with the cattle breeding program.  “See, when I was a young boy before I went to school, my dad was foreman of the Holstein Dairy and they kept a lot of records.  You know, milk production.  I fell in love with that kind of stuff, so I stayed on.  And then as I grew up, you know, you like horses, but I got to learn.  My dad says, ‘It’s not a horse ranch, it’s a cattle ranch, so put your emphasis on cattle, not horses.’”

Living with his family in the outer reaches of the Parker Ranch, Charlie loved everything about ranching. He began to ride when he was three and enjoyed a life populated with animals.  “We lived up in the mountain until I started school.  My older brothers and sisters came down and lived with my grandparents. But when I started school, we moved to Waimea…In those days when you live up the mountain, we didn’t see too many people.  When we came down to Waimea, when we went to school, we were like wild people and afraid of people.”

Charlie attended both Waimea School and the Japanese School (located next to Church Row). “Then the war started in 1941 when I had just started fifth grade, and every thing stopped…The English school here, this Waimea School, was taken over by the hospital, and we had to go to school in private homes for a couple of years untile they built a temporary school by the Episcopal Church.” 

Although World War II brought upheaval to life in Waimea, it also brought unexpected pleasures such as rodeos. “There was one rodeo down here.  It was at Puihale and all the Marines were there.  And they didn’t build an arena, they just, the Marines were the arena!  They stacked them on the side and they let the animals out and the cowboys roped the cows or steers or whatever it was.  The marines just jumped on them and tackled them down, so they enjoyed themselves.  Parker Ranch put out a big barbecue and they had about twenty-five cattle to barbecue.  The Marines cooked the barbecue and everybody, we were just like family, we just walked right in there.  We used to go to outdoor movies in the Marine camps.”

Beginning at the age of twelve, Charlie started to work for Parker Ranch in the summers milking cows.  After graduation from high school, Charlie began full-time work building fences, then moving up to paniolo.  Eventually, he became involved with the cattle breeding division of the ranch.  Although he didn’t attend college, Charlie continued to learn his craft.  “I went on learning.  I mean, practical schooling that I had on the rand, but you don’t move up in position as fast as if you had some, ou know more education. So, I went to short courses of cattle schools to pick up all of these things. In 1960, I had a tutor for a month who shoed me genetics because I was in charge of the register herd.”

After being a livestock manager for seven years, Charlie became a division supervisor.  The ranching life, with its limitless variation continues to hold his fascination and admiration.  “When you work  with cattle, every day is different.” 

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John Lindsey

John Lindsey exudes the kind of energy that defies his eighty-three years and left us chasing him down memory lane.  That life force has served him well throughout a varied career as ranch hand, paniolo and construction worker.

Growing up, John found little opportunity for his energy to get him into much trouble though, because his grandfather was the local truant officer.  He rode a large, white horse and made it his business to know the location of every school age child in Waimea.  “Our time, the other boys who went to school, they never had time to fool around.  The truant officer would come in the morning and check out absentees.  He would check everyone.  There were two kids where Lakeland is.  One boy never showed.  He got there about 9:30 or 10:00.  Turned out he caught the boy playing in the yard, made him dress and the boy, from there, walked all the way to school.”

John went directly from eighth grade to work for Parker Ranch.  “After I got out of the eighth grade, I ran from here to that office up there.  Parker Ranch office was there.  There was a post office, the Parker Ranch office, a store.  I walked into the office, the main man was there – Carter.  He looked at me and says, ‘What you want?’ … ‘Mr. Carter, I want a job.’  ‘You want to work or you want to play?’ I said, ‘Work.’ “yhou start Monday.’ Just like that.  I mean work!”

John wasn’t kidding. His early experiences were varied and served to prepare him for later career changes.  “I did everything.  I dug ditches, I laid pipeline, I did fencing and everything else.” One of those jobs involved working in the farming operation at Waiki’i.  “There were different seasons, like at Wiki’i we grew corn and all that…They grew hay, and in the season we got a crew there. It was a labor crew.  Then they cut the corn, mow the hay – not with new-fangled machines, with horse and sickle.  Then they raked it.”

John began riding with the cowboy gang, moving cattle down to Kawaihae.  To protect them from the midday sun, they were taken part way down the hill on one day and then, beginning at around 1:00 a.m. the next, were driven the rest of the way to Kawaihae.  “That time we didn’t have roads, no nothing there.  But they had that big tree; they made a cattle road there and what you call a pasture.  In the meantime, there’s other cattle grazing in that area…On a moonlit night, it was like driving cattle during the day.  Beautiful, beautiful.”

After 13 years with Parker Ranch, John set off to Honolulu where he workded in the Navy shipyard during the war and later in construction, both on O’ahu and Wake Island.  He eventually returned with his wife to Waimea where he now lives with his daughter, Helen and grandson, Shai-Anthony.  

John Lindsey passed away in 1998, not long after the completion of this project. 

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Jiro Yamaguchi

Jiro Yamaguchi’s shy demeanor belies his hard riding life.  After completing elementary school in 1938, “We started first grade, baby class.  At the end of the building was the seventh grade.  That’s when I quit school”, Jiro began his official career with Parker Ranch.  Although it was not his first experience working for them.  “Saturdays, Parker Ranch used to hire the Boy Scouts to work –  take like a test…take you out to the fields.  Work digging weeds, pulling grass, going up the pipeline, tape the pipelines.”

After a kind of apprenticeship as a general ranch hand, Jiro carried on from his father and began the job that was in his blood – paniolo. “Yeh, but you know to start most people, most employees start out slowly with mending the fence.  But like us, my family, most all of us could ride horses because by dad was a cowboy.  They used to put us on the horse all the time.  Summertime, I used to go with him early in the morning.”
What is that saying?  The quickest road to a man’s heart is through his stomach.  This may have been the case here as Jiro met his wife, Asako, at the Parker Ranch Restaurant where she worked at the time.  Because it was wartime, and the church was being used by troops, Jiro and Asako were married in the home of the priest from the Imiola Church.  

Another skill Jiro acquired from his day was roping.  “You have to learn because my dad was a pretty good roper.  So what I did was practice roping kids, roping friends, chasing wild pig and started that way.”  Jiro’s special skill with roping also got him in commercials that were seen in such far-flung places as Germany.  “We used to drive horses, drive cattle to make a commercial.  You have to rope the heifer and take it all on video for commercial.  Then I did one roping down at this corral down there – roping horse for a guy from UCLA.  Then the commercial went to Germany or someplace like that.”

At first, because of a Parker Ranch rule against their paniolo participating  in rodeos, Jiro had to be satisfied honing his skill on the job.  Eventually, permission was granted and Jiro was off on his rodeo career.  When he retired in 1990, Jiro continued roping and sharing his skills with the youth of the community. 
Jiro passed away in July 2004. 
 
All but one of these fine men have passed on but their contributions and stories will live on.  They were part of the living Aloha that makes Waimea a special place to live.  

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