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Hanauna Ola: Sustaining the Generations through Voyaging      Ke Ola Magazine  Jan. / Feb. 2018

2/6/2018

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PictureWa'a crew member Keomailani Case takes a sun sight.
For centuries the spirit of the voyaging canoe lay dormant only to be reawakened with a question: Is it possible to sail a voyaging canoe to Tahiti using non-instrument navigation? Now, many years later on Hawaiʽi Island Pwo navigator Chadd Paishon asked a different question: Can this island provision one canoe for one voyage?
  “Some years ago before we started the worldwide voyage, on island already we've got our school garden. I was trying to figure out for myself, what do I say to the garden folks about the canoe? If our kūpuna were able to come here aboard their canoes and able to sustain themselves, then is it possible for us to provision one canoe for one voyage?” said Chadd
  Land and waʽa crew are striving to answer that question with a resounding “Yes!” through a three year Administration for Native Americans (ANA) grant awarded to Na Kalai Waʽa for the Hanauna Ola program, which will culminate in a sail to Papahānaumokuākea in 2019.
  Began in 2016 and now in its second year, the ʽOhana Makaliʽi is digging deep into traditions to prepare for a 2019 sail that will be fully provisioned from the soil and hands of the island and in the process re-establish the cultural practices that make up a healthy voyaging based life.
  “At Na Kalai Waʽa, what we try to do is to re-discover what that core is and try to live that legacy. And that legacy is to involve everybody. Not only human beings but animals too. The health of the ocean. It's not separate. It's pretty much everything,” said Shorty Bertelmann, Pwo Navigator and Hanauna Ola sail director.
  Along with 30 waʽa crew, the program is made up of a group of ten school gardens plus Hōʽea Moku, the Na Kalai Waʽa canoe garden in Kohala, who will endeavor to provision Makaliʽi for a one month voyage.​

PictureMakali'i ready to depart Kawaihae for a training cruise to Hana.
Waʽa Crew 
  In its first year the 30 participating waʽa crew engaged in an array of trainings that will equip them with the complex skill set they will need to be successful crew members, but primary for a voyage is to know one’s place. “It's not just a matter of going. Before you leave you have to know everything about your island, the birds, the reef. Our journey is to learn our island. When we arrive, we’re Big Islanders who came,” said Shorty.
  The crew explored wahi pana such as Kumukahi, the eastern most point of the island and a traditional embarkation point; Koʽa Heiau Holomoana, Mahukona’s navigational heiau; and Kalaemano Cultural Center at Kaupulehu  where the star compass Kukuku o Kalani, recently moved now resides.
  At a year two orientation gathering last October, crew gathered around Kukulu o Kalani. The star compass, brought to Hawaiʽi by master voyager Mau Piailug, is an essential navigational tool. “It’s the origin; the place to begin. It’s that beginning point that allows you to understand the rising and setting. That whole continuum that's going on right now. Where the sun goes down and where it’s going to come up tomorrow, where that star is going to come from. Where the wind is coming from. Feel that wind on your face and notice that subtle change and when it starts to shift,” explained Chadd.
  This is where navigational knowledge begins, but it continues on the water with crew observing and reading the story displayed in the sky and then to set and hold a course using natural elements as a guide.
  It’s fall equinox and Makaliʽi awaits her crew just inside the sea wall at Kawaihae Harbor. On this day they will be sailing north and if they find the wind and the conditions are right, will sail across the channel to Hana and back. But before leaving the dock for a sail the crew gathers and clasps hands for a blessing and to set intentions.
  Shorty questions the crew about what they notice about conditions: What is the meaning of the position of the sun? What do those clouds mean? How has the sky changed from sunrise? From last night?
  The crew will also learn about and experience all the roles on the canoe. Everyone will learn to lead and to navigate, but at the core of it all is spirit. The canoe fosters an intangible spiritual connection that goes far beyond skills and schedules. “We can do everything we need to do to voyage. Be on track and all the training and everything, but for voyaging we need to connect to the universe and that's multi-dimensional.  That's like all the training plus another dimension,” said Shorty.

Picture
Pwo Navigator Chadd Paishon explains the star compass to canoe crew.
PictureCanoe crew orientation at Kalaemano.
Hanai Waʽa
  Hanai means to foster, sustain, connect and it’s that spirit that infuses every aspect of Hanauna Ola. “The spiritual journey is a part of us and it's never separated. When we start to talk about ceremony, protocol, it's the same with everything we do. When we're putting our plants in the ground it’s the intention you plant with, the spirit you plant with,” said Chadd.

  At the heart of hanai waʽa voices are raised in chant, a conduit to the deep spirit that connects everything and is the manner in which voices are sent out on the wind when a canoe leaves the shores.  
  “Chanting is huge, an integral part of everything that we do. A chant might ask permission for a canoe to begin its journey, announce the arrival of a canoe to the welcoming land base, or recite the genealogy of its creation. To chant with all your heart with a complete understanding of the intention and purpose is an essential part of the kuleana of the chanter when it comes to the canoe,” explained Kumu Pua Case.  


Picture
Keala Kahuanui works with land crew at Kalaemano.
Land Crew 
  Traditionally the skills and contributions of the entire island went into making a successful voyage. Just as the canoe crew has many dimensions to their training, the land crew, coordinated by Keala Kahuanui and Chadd, will be engaging in growing, preserving and preparing food to sustain the canoe crew on their journey, as well as creating cordage.
  Representatives from the four participating districts of Hilo, Hāmakua, Kohala and Kona meet on a regular basis to learn about and prepare foods and cordage.
  Supplying healthy, balanced food for the crew without benefit of refrigeration is the challenge being taken on by the school gardens and the first quarter of the year focused on trainings in food processing and preservation such as dehydration, pickling and canning.
  In November land crew members met in Laupahoehoe to study preservation techniques and process foods. “We made sauerkraut the first day. We made lilikoi, strawberry and mango jam.  We do four hours of reading [safe food preparation] and then we go and do the hands-on work. Next week we're doing fish, chicken and sausage making and it's all going to be preserved,” said Heather Sarsona, Kanu o ka ʽĀina garden coordinator.


PictureHanauna Ola land crew prepares sauerkraut at Laupahoehoe kitchen.
  The process of preparing for the voyage will encourage sustainability in our island community. “The preservation class. The most beautiful thing for me is that it's teaching us to not waste. To stock our own pantries at home. So that whenever we're going on a voyage everyone can contribute from their pantry and wasn't that how it was in the old days?” said Heather. 
  The other focus area for the land crew is cordage, which literally and metaphorically connects everything together. It lashes the canoe together and binds the crew to the canoe, the community and the island and is a key part of canoe protocols. The first step is to learn about hau, hala, niu and laʽi, some of the main cordage plants and prepare them for braiding.
  “All the different districts are looking at the resources within their community. If we understand that those resources are still here and take care of it and know how to use it. It's beautiful. That's what Hanau Ola is. To insure that those exact things, those experiences continue. That they don't stop,” said Chadd.  

PictureCaptain and Pwo Navigator, Shorty Bertelmann orients the crew.
But even beyond the voyage, the hope is that the roots of Hanauna Ola will establish themselves as a foundation for a sustainable, healthy life. “If we can provision Makaliʽi, 14 crew members, three meals a day, for a month then we can feed our families. If we can do that for the canoe, it's possible we can do it for our community. Whatever we do on the canoe is really a reflection back on what we can do on our moku,” said Chadd.
  The ʽOhana Waʽa has sailed many journeys and the Hanauna Ola program is the wind beneath the sails that will extend those journeys throughout the generations.
 “What I’ve learned from the canoe is that it's a community based entity. There's intention behind it. There's spirit behind it. There's family behind it. Every bit from mauka to makai is wrapped up between those two hulls. It's through Hanauna Ola, that we will sustain the generations through voyaging,” concluded Chadd. 


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Kohanaiki: Connecting the Past to the Future   Ke Ola  Sept / Oct

9/14/2017

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PictureAerial view of Kohanaiki. Photo courtesy of Kohanaiki Shores LLC
Tutu Papa moves quietly in the dark of his Kohanaiki mauka hale in final preparations for a makai gathering journey, gathering the supplies he will need for the day: woven fish traps, gourds to carry the salt and fish he gathers and a lunch of dried fish and poi.    
 
He heads down the lava strewn trail lit by the first rays to peak over Hualalai. Almost to the shore, he stops at a pond to collect opae ula, small shrimp that he will use for bait. Continuing on he recognizes Makua, who is already setting his traps. Kalani stops to observe the north and south currents facing off, a restlessly undecided ocean and moves south to set his traps. 
​
  Historically, Kohanaiki makai was a gathering place for shoreline fishing, salt collection and gathering opae ula from anchialine ponds by ahupuaʽa residents. Reggie Lee, park cultural advisor, lineal descendent and son of recently passed master weaver, Elizabeth Lee remembers, “My mom's story is they used to come down here and fish. We were shoreline fisherman. They used to dry and salt the fish. They'd go up on a donkey. My grandfather used to trade all the way up to Kalaoa. We even dyed our own net using the bark of the kukui tree. We wanted it dark brown or red to camouflage it.”

   Formerly known as Pine Trees, the popular surfing area came under threat in the late 1980’s with the proposal of a large resort development. The community activated with the goal to keep the area open and accessible. “First we formed a grassroots surfer's group, the Friends of Kohanaiki. We didn't know all the buttons to push to fight something that big. We were working on keeping the beach open,” said original Kohanaiki ʽOhana member and North Kona County Councilwoman, Karen Eoff.
  Then one day Karen and husband Gary Eoff met Angel Pilago. “We met Angel and his wife Nita at the beach. Angel knew about the work of the Native Hawaiian Legal Corporation (NHLC) and he was a visionary and a strategist. As president of the Kohanaiki ʽOhana, he and his wife Nita navigated us through the legal battles,” said Karen.
  Based on two Supreme Court decisions, the impact of any development on the gathering and usage rights of Native Hawaiians, as well as the environment must be taken into consideration. Following these decisions in 2000, Hawaiʽi State adopted Act 50, which required a cultural impact statement as well as an environmental one.   
  
Professional legal support in combination with an activated community eventually won the day. Rebecca Villegas who was born and raised in Kona and grew up at Kohanaiki was one of many voices raised. “When I was 14 years old I gave a speech to the panel requesting that efforts be made to protect Kohanaiki. Growing up at Kohanaiki, it has been a place where I've celebrated my own birthdays and my family’s birthdays. I raised my daughter there. It's a grounding place, not only for myself but for the whole community,” said Rebecca.
​  The legal battle over, in 2001 Harry Kim brought all the stake holders to the table and after two years of meetings, a good faith agreement was forged. The zoning changed from resort to open space along the shoreline, with the developer donating 100 acres to the County of Hawaiʽi for the creation of Kohanaiki Beach Park.
​
  Since that time the corporate entity, now Kohanaiki Shores, has honored the agreement, creating a public park along the shoreline with camping, bathrooms and showers. They have also complied with the highest standards of environmental protection, creating an Audubon award winning sanctuary for such endangered birds as the Hawaiian stilt and the sooty tern.  
Picture
Keiki Surf for the Earth participants with their signs. Photo courtesy of Karen Eoff
PictureLineal descendant Reggie Lee harvesting ipu gourds in the canoe garden. Photo by Jan Wizinowich
​Not Your Ordinary Beach Park
  Although many changes have taken place since Kohanaiki mauka residents traveled to the shore for sustenance, today Kohanaiki is carrying on in the spirit of community resource, the perpetuation of Hawaiian cultural practices and sustainability.
  Turn off the traffic-choked highway and one is immediately plunged into an eye-of-storm calmness. A narrow road lined with great heaves of lava, winds towards the sea. The road narrows and curves left running parallel to the shoreline and a series of campsites tucked under the numerous tree heliotrope. A little further on a large collection of young surfers ride the southern summer swells while parents are watchful on the shore. 
  Colorful hand-painted signs with reminders to take care of the beach, drive slowly and live with aloha, line the entry drive, complements of Keiki Surf for the Earth, a contest for youth 14 and under, now in its 22nd year.
  It’s not just about surfing though. “Kids have access to a space that is safe and healthy where they can learn and grow and have an understanding of their kuleana. They clean up marine debris, take care of the reef ecosystem and learn how to conserve water and reduce one use plastics,” said Rebecca.
  The road ends and a foot path continues past the halau, Ka Hale Waʽa, today having its thatching repaired. An ahu and lele stands south of the halau and forms the entrance to a 17’ diameter star compass, designed by Gary and Kalepa Baybayan and used to teach way finding.   
  Drawn to the star compass’s connection to canoe culture, Kumu Keala Ching brings kūpuna to the park. “I brought kūpuna down to learn about the dial itself, the movement, the celestial stars summer solstice and winter solstice and to bring information to our people by learning about the area,” said Kumu.
  Beyond the star compass is the canoe garden backed by some of the 200 anchialine ponds that dot the area. Carved out of a space once choked with fountain grass and naupaka the canoe garden contains large patches of ipu gourds, sweet potatoes and kalo.
  Besides providing sustenance and materials for the creation of traditional implements, the garden is a living laboratory of sustainability that teaches learners by allowing them to plunge their hands into the soil and life’s mysteries hidden there.

PictureLanakila Learning Center students preparing 'ie'ie. Photo courtesy of Karen Eoff
​ A Learning Laboratory
  Kohanaiki Beach Park provides an ideal setting for students to engage in authentic cultural and environmental learning. Neighboring Innovations Public Charter School has a bi-annual hands-on science program at the park. “We incorporate a lot of ethno-mathematics into our curriculum. Cordage and cordage making are one of the corner stones of our science curriculum,” said Meg Dehning, Innovations middle school teacher.
  The students experience a combination of hands-on engagement to learn about environmental science, cultural practices and give back with service work. “They had an opportunity to learn about the culture / ecological heritage of that particular section of the coastline. The students got to do lauhala weaving with Aunty Elizabeth Lee, learn to strip hau and took part in the ceremony for the star compass that was presided over by Kalepa Baybayan,” said Meg. 
  Service learning allows students the chance to give back at the same time they were receiving. “They really liked the hands on work, especially when it came to learning to weave from Aunty Elizabeth or clearing the pond or helping dig the garden. It gave them the opportunity to learn in an authentic way. These are things that you just can't teach in the classroom,” said Meg. 

   Another regular group at the park is Lanakila Learning Center, an alternative high school program in Hilo. Their environmental science curriculum involves what Director Wendy Hamane calls full circle learning. Students teamed up with Gary to propagate, harvest, process and use iʽeiʽe, a vine that grows on ohiʽa trees and is traditionally used for weaving and cordage.
  “Realizing how much work went into gathering the leaves, cleaning and stripping and the whole thing. They understand the hard work that goes into it and they really appreciate the manaʽo that's passed down by cultural practitioners because they've been on the receiving end of it. A whole different level of appreciation,” said Wendy.
​
  Next year’s program will focus on fiber art and cordage. “We hope to help them with their cordage garden. Gary’s going to teach the kids how to make cordage out of hau and coconut husk and hopefully the kids can help weave the hau to make the entry rope for the front of the halau and to learn to lash the double-hulled canoe that they're in the process of building. They have to come up with two miles of cordage,” said Wendy.
 
Picture
Lanakila Learning Center Students. Photo courtesy of Karen Eoff
​A Win-Win Model for the Future
  The Kohanaiki Beach Park provides a sense of place and connectedness to the past and the future. And it’s an example of what can be done when people bring their best intentions to the table. “The park is a model for a better community where the shore remains with for and by the community, and managed by a consortium of county, community and developer representatives. The vision is that the model be perpetuated elsewhere. The coastline must be available for everyone,” said Rebecca.
 
For more information contact:
Camping permits: https://hawaiicounty.ehawaii.gov/camping/all,details,57824.html
Contact writer: janwiz@gmail.com
 
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