“Some years ago before we started the worldwide voyage, on island already we've got our school garden. I was trying to figure out for myself, what do I say to the garden folks about the canoe? If our kūpuna were able to come here aboard their canoes and able to sustain themselves, then is it possible for us to provision one canoe for one voyage?” said Chadd
Land and waʽa crew are striving to answer that question with a resounding “Yes!” through a three year Administration for Native Americans (ANA) grant awarded to Nā Kalai Waʽa for the Hanauna Ola program, which will culminate in a sail to Papahānaumokuākea in 2019.
Began in 2016 and now in its second year, the ʽOhana Makaliʽi is digging deep into traditions to prepare for a 2019 sail that will be fully provisioned from the soil and hands of the island and in the process re-establish the cultural practices that make up a healthy voyaging based life.
“At Nā Kalai Waʽa, what we try to do is to re-discover what that core is and try to live that legacy. And that legacy is to involve everybody. Not only human beings but animals too. The health of the ocean. It's not separate. It's pretty much everything,” said Shorty Bertelmann, Pwo Navigator and Hanauna Ola sail director.
Along with 30 waʽa crew, the program is made up of a group of ten school gardens plus Hōʽea Moku, the Nā Kalai Waʽa canoe garden in Kohala, who will endeavor to provision Makaliʽi for a one month voyage.
In its first year the 30 participating waʽa crew engaged in an array of trainings that will equip them with the complex skill set they will need to be successful crew members, but primary for a voyage is to know one’s place. “It's not just a matter of going. Before you leave you have to know everything about your island, the birds, the reef. Our journey is to learn our island. When we arrive, we’re Big Islanders who came,” said Shorty.
The crew explored wahi pana such as Kumukahi, the eastern most point of the island and a traditional embarkation point; Koʽa Heiau Holomoana, Mahukona’s navigational heiau; and Kalaemanō Cultural Center at Kaʽūpūlehu where the star compass Kukuku o Kalani, recently moved now resides.
At a year two orientation gathering last October, crew gathered around Kukulu o Kalani. The star compass, brought to Hawaiʽi by master voyager Mau Piailug, is an essential navigational tool. “It’s the origin; the place to begin. It’s that beginning point that allows you to understand the rising and setting. That whole continuum that's going on right now. Where the sun goes down and where it’s going to come up tomorrow, where that star is going to come from. Where the wind is coming from. Feel that wind on your face and notice that subtle change and when it starts to shift,” explained Chadd.
This is where navigational knowledge begins, but it continues on the water with crew observing and reading the story displayed in the sky and then to set and hold a course using natural elements as a guide.
It’s fall equinox and Makaliʽi awaits her crew just inside the sea wall at Kawaihae Harbor. On this day they will be sailing north and if they find the wind and the conditions are right, will sail across the channel to Hana and back. But before leaving the dock for a sail the crew gathers and clasps hands for a blessing and to set intentions.
Shorty questions tunes the crew into conditions: What is the meaning of the position of the sun? What do those clouds mean? How has the sky changed from sunrise? From last night?
The crew will also learn about and experience all the roles on the canoe. Everyone will learn to lead and to navigate, but at the core of it all is spirit. The canoe fosters an intangible spiritual connection that goes far beyond skills and schedules. “We can do everything we need to do to voyage. Be on track and all the training and everything, but for voyaging we need to connect to the universe and that's multi-dimensional. That's like all the training plus another dimension,” said Shorty.
Hanai means to foster, sustain, connect and it’s that spirit that infuses every aspect of Hanauna Ola. “The spiritual journey is a part of us and it's never separated. When we start to talk about ceremony, protocol, it's the same with everything we do. When we're putting our plants in the ground it’s the intention you plant with, the spirit you plant with,” said Chadd.
At the heart of hanai waʽa voices are raised in chant, a conduit to the deep spirit that connects everything and is the manner in which voices are sent out on the wind when a canoe leaves the shores.
“Chanting is huge, an integral part of everything that we do. A chant might ask permission for a canoe to begin its journey, announce the arrival of a canoe to the welcoming land base, or recite the genealogy of its creation. To chant with all your heart with a complete understanding of the intention and purpose is an essential part of the kuleana of the chanter when it comes to the canoe,” explained Kumu Pua Case.
Traditionally the skills and contributions of the entire island went into making a successful voyage. Just as the canoe crew has many dimensions to their training, the land crew, coordinated by Keala Kahuanui and Chadd, will be engaging in growing, preserving and preparing food to sustain the canoe crew on their journey, as well as creating cordage.
Representatives from the four participating districts of Hilo, Hāmakua, Kohala and Kona meet on a regular basis to learn about and prepare foods and cordage.
Supplying healthy, balanced food for the crew without benefit of refrigeration is the challenge being taken on by the school gardens and the first quarter of the year focused on trainings in food processing and preservation such as dehydration, pickling and canning.
In November land crew members met in Laupāhoehoe to study preservation techniques and process foods. “We made sauerkraut the first day. We made lilikoi, strawberry and mango jam. We do four hours of reading [safe food preparation] and then we go and do the hands-on work. Next week we're doing fish, chicken and sausage making and it's all going to be preserved,” said Heather Sarsona, Kanu o ka ʽĀina garden coordinator.
The other focus area for the land crew is cordage, which literally and metaphorically connects everything together. It lashes the canoe together and binds the crew to the canoe, the community and the island and is a key part of canoe protocols. The first step is to learn about hau, hala, niu and laʽi, some of the main cordage plants and prepare them for braiding.
“All the different districts are looking at the resources within their community. If we understand that those resources are still here and take care of it and know how to use it. It's beautiful. That's what Hānau Ola is. To insure that those exact things, those experiences continue. That they don't stop,” said Chadd.
The ʽOhana Waʽa has sailed many journeys and the Hanauna Ola program is the wind beneath the sails that will extend those journeys throughout the generations.
“What I’ve learned from the canoe is that it's a community based entity. There's intention behind it. There's spirit behind it. There's family behind it. Every bit from mauka to makai is wrapped up between those two hulls. It's through Hanauna Ola, that we will sustain the generations through voyaging,” concluded Chadd.